Tuesday 21 February 2017

A Perfect Day on the Isle of Skye

  Hillwandering isn't all about epic 50mile+ walks and multi-day bivvies on Scafell Pike. Sometimes the very best days can involve little more than a short walk and a big chill somewhere beautiful.

  Blaven on the Isle of Skye for example. For an airy little perch with unforgettable views of sea, island and mountain, you'll struggle to find anywhere better. An added bonus is that you can camp on the isolated little beach of Camasunary, dip your toes in the sea whilst cooking breakfast and 2 hours and 3000ft later be chilling on one of the finest mountains in the UK.

  Back in May 2017 I finally made my first visit to Scotland. After quickly doing the Cullin Ridge Traverse in 1 1/2 days with two mates I decided to nosy alone down Glen Sligachan to the beach at Camasunary and have an idle two nights and a day in the mountains. The pace was mellow, there was no rushing, no big mileages, nothing more than sitting by the sea and a perfect day pottering about on Blaven above a vast sea of clouds.

  So here goes- a selection of photos from one of the most unforgettable days I've ever had- and it involved no more than 5 miles of walking!


  The Isle of Rum seen from my tent, with the Rum Cullin poking out above the cloud. Mornings like this are beautifully simple. Wake up by pottering along the beach and finding a stream to collect water from, then cook breakfast whilst listening to the waves lapping on the shore. The sun gradually gets warmer above a hazy blue sky and the mountains beckon. Anticipation builds. A good day lies ahead.





  The beautiful beach of Camasunary with the old bothy whilst the clouds floating below Gars-Bheinn suggest a possible inversion higher up. Despite a heavy pack and tired legs, that is all that is needed to lure me upward for the next 900m. 


  Looking back down on Camasunary from around 400m on Blaven. On days like this there is no rush, so I took it easy to take in the views. Anyways, after doing the Cullin Ridge two days previously I was a bit broken and slow- with plentiful soft grass, everywhere I looked there was a perfect couch to rest weary legs on.


  The Cullin Ridge poking above the cloud from Blaven's South Ridge. Excitement built up as the inversion began to reveal itself. The upper 300m of ascent feels like nothing with nice easy scrambling and views like this.


  A Broken Spectre on Blaven's South Ridge. A great little surprise! Noticing that there was some cloud floating in this gully and the sun directly behind, I made my way to the edge until my shadow was cast onto the cloud. Always cool to see!


  Sgurr Nan Gillean from Blaven. The cloud was notably thicker to the north over Glen Sligachan, with the cliffs of Blaven rising out of the ethereal wool.


  Sun, sea, cloud and islands. Looking back down on Camasunary where I camped with the Isle of Rhum on the horizon. 11am, the mountain to myself and no sound apart from the breeze- on a bank holiday. Some days you just get lucky!


  The Cullin Ridge in all its glory from Blaven's summit. One of the finest sights anywhere. After two hours amble, chill and scramble I reached the top of the mountain at 11am to be greeted by this view. What else to do but spend 4 hours sat about in the warm sunshine soaking it up. When you have food, water, sunshine and views like this there is no need to move. All human needs are met!


  A raven perched above the clouds. Watched him for a good half hour- wasn't bothered about humans and seemed quite content gazing northward and pottering about.


    First trip to Scotland, the Cullin Ridge Traverse done and now a day like this- happy as a pig in shit!


  View over Glen Sligachan to Sgurr Nan Gillean. During the lazy afternoon sat on the summit the cloud gradually began to disperse and thin out. Really cool to see it lingering over the mountains whilst a gap mirroring that of Glen Sligachan began to form.


     View north over the Red Cullin.


  Sgurr Nan Gillean from the way back down Blaven. After 4 perfect hours sat in the sun it was time to drag myself back down to Camasunary as the mountains shimmered in the late afternoon heat. Its at this point in the day you become coated in a film of peat, sweat and suncream, the bogs give off a distinct aroma and combine with the haze to give a slightly heady feeling. Keep on plodding, think of the cooling sea breeze and food. Perfect.


  Early evening and the beach at Camasunary beckons. There is not a stress in the world. Simply choose a nice bit of grass by the beach to pitch the tent, collect water, cook tea and sit late in the evening light gazing out to the Isle of Rhum and listening to the sea. Life is easy. Life is good!


  Late evening at Camasunary on a little potter around the beach, with Blaven on the right. By late May it is light until 23:00 so you can be as relaxed as you wish. It was pure bliss to poke around, soak everything up, try no to think of the 4am start and 8 mile plod to Sligachan in the morning and revel in one of the best (and easiest) days out ever.

  So there we go. Head somewhere beautiful, take it easy, get lucky with the weather and you can experience some of the best days ever in the hills. 50+ mile walks and epic days are great, but wandering in the hills is about much more. It is just as nice to to be in a place and enjoy a slower, more relaxed experience!

  Much more coming soon!

Thursday 16 February 2017

'Satellite Dreams and Nightmares' (poem)

Wandering through midnight realms
Resonance fails, satellite dreams
Ethereal beings destined to be known
Drifting through, all alone

Awakening shudder
Reality fades
Sinking deeper
Reawake!

Suffocating pressure, fear and despair
A flickering of the eyes- and 'It' is there
Locked in this immobile mortal tomb
Between two dimensions, of disorientating doom

Feedback loop cycles
No Escape
The Nightmare Vortex
Survive

Blurred visions realigned
A freeing of the body, a release of the mind
Insanity's crescendo dissolves, the world becomes bright
Caressed by sobering waves, arise into a cradle of light


I've had lyrics for this floating about for ages, and after a month of trying to write it it all  finally came together. It is about sleep paralysis (which I hope none of you reading this ever have to experience). 

Monday 6 February 2017

Snowdon as seen from Kinder Scout

Hello.

  Ever wondered just how far you can see from the Peak District on a clear day? Well, on most fine days can easily see Lincoln Cathedral from Fulwood Lane at Ringinglow (40 miles) or Pen-y-Gent from Bleaklow (around 50 miles). But what if conditions were really good? And I mean, really, really good. Well, on days of exceptionally clear visibility it is possible to make out the mountains of Snowdonia from Kinder Scout, a distance of over 90 miles.

  Now, on most days views west are limited to the Clwydian Hills 60 miles distant on the welsh border due to haze or moisture in the air. To see Snowdonia your best chances are early mornings in the autumn or winter under high-pressure inversion conditions with a thin layer of cloud trapped over the Cheshire Plain. Summer time can be unreliable due to heat haze obscuring even the nearby Winter Hill, although I have seen Carnedd Llewelyn once in July after a period of heavy rain cleared the air. Get the required conditions and go as high as possible- Kinder Low (633m) or Higher Shelf Stones (621m) and possibly Shining Tor are recommended for their height and uninterrupted views of the Cheshire Plain. With a bit of luck, you could be in for a treat.

  Anyway, back on Halloween last year I found myself sat on Kinder Low with Snowdonia very clearly rising above and beyond the Cheshire Plain. Having climbed Kinder over 150 times, it is only twice I've ever seen it, and on only this occasion as clear as the photos below will show. Snowdon was even in view from Lord's Seat- a distance of 96 miles and the furthest I believe it is possible to see from The Peak District.


  Looking at Snowdonia in visibility like this, it really makes you realise that somewhere that seems so distant from Peakland really is not that far at all...


  And here is a slightly zoomed-in version from the same spot on Kinder Low...


    The same view again, but with the Berwyn Mountains visible in the far left of the photo.

  Sometimes when out and about you just get lucky. I've only ever seen this view twice in 14 years of wandering. Keep getting out and wandering- you may find a very rare and nice surprise!

Noctilucent Clouds over Kinder Scout

A few photographs of a Noctilucent Clouds glowing over Kinder Scout in the early hours of Friday June 29th. 2:40am, Grindslow Knoll. I'd...