Mam Tor and Back Tor are both active landslips and climbing on them outside of winter is generally not encouraged by the climbing and walking media, and also the National Trust who own them. Please think long and hard before committing to anything but the grade 1 routes- the objective danger from crumbling holds and falling rocks is very real. I have personally witnessed several landslides and many rockfalls over 6 years spent exploring them.
Introduction.
This is a little guide to the scrambling potential on two of my favorite crags in The Peak District- Mam Tor and Back Tor. I have written this simply because I am very passionate about scrambling on them, and that it may be of interest to the occasional person. It is for those of you who have walked past and wondered 'hmm, is there any way up that'? If it leads to an unusual and interesting experience, or saves you from making foolish decisions, then I'll be happy.
Bits and Bobs
Location: For those not local to Peakland, Mam Tor and Back Tor lie on The Great Ridge between the Hope and Edale Valleys. Both are within easy reach from Castleton, Hope or Edale by car or public transport. The 272 bus goes hourly from Sheffield to Hope and Castleton, whilst Edale is served by regular trains from Sheffield and Manchester.
Atmosphere: Both crags have a very intense and foreboding atmosphere to them. In contrast, they also lie in one of the most popular parts of Peakland. Expect to be at the mercy of public viewing if you go on a weekend or bank holiday. I have had everything from photos taken, to people concerned about my state of mind, to a curious yet happy couple delighted at following me up Mam Tor's gully. Move quickly or go during the week!
Climbing: This is not conventional scrambling and very much an acquired taste. Grass for handholds, smearing on shale and palming off loose pebbles is the name of the game here. None of the routes here tackle the vertical tiers of rock and you'll be surprised at just how much is on offer once you look beyond the myth and reputation. Scrambling grades are given, but they are rough estimates only. Take it easy!
Conditions: These vary hugely between how wet and dry the crags are, rapidly transforming the nature of even the easy scrambles- when bone dry or soaking wet they are crumbling loose nightmares. Get them in a happy medium and both Mam Tor and Back Tor can be surprisingly solid. If the grass holds well and you can kick steps in the shale, its about as secure as you'll get it.
Why?!: This is simply to satisfy the curious and show what exists. Unless stated, I have done all routes at least once and most on many occasions, as well a a descent and Back Tor's gully. The joys here are of delighting in the quirky if slightly rebellious nature of it all, of pulling hard on seemingly loose bits of grass and of moves you wont have done anywhere else. Relish doing something a little bit different and out of the ordinary, being in awe-inspiring situations and experience a grand atmosphere unlike anywhere else in Peakland.
The Left-Hand Arete on Mam Tor is a safe and little known, but superb scramble that I feel needs championing. The gully on Back Tor- which despite its unconventional nature- is a mid-grade classic.
Mam Tor.
Despite its fearsome and well deserved reputation as a lethal pile of crud, the imposing SE Face of Mam Tor offers several summer scrambles. Generally sticking to the sides of the crag, they avoid the steep and loose main wall between the Blue John Rib and The Third Scoop, yet still give dramatic scrambling. Height varies from 40m- 80m.
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| Mam Tor Topo. Click to enlarge. |
A: Mam Tor Left Hand- 1/2. Pretty much just a steep grassy walk with a smattering of loose rock and shale. A short rock band in the middle is the only major difficulty. Trending further right onto steep bands of shale/ rock/ grass ups the grade and fear factor considerably.
B: Mam Tor Left Hand Arete- 1. From the entrance to the main gully, take the obvious left-hand arete, gaining it by a rising shale slope. Safe in most conditions and suitable for novice scramblers. The finest grade 1 scramble in Peakland- delightful yet easy scrambling with great exposure and grand situations. Do it!
C: Mam Tor Gully- 1/2. The classic winter route of the crag gives a fun easy scramble in impressive surroundings. Follow the narrow chute into a wide amphitheatre on blocky easy-angled shale. From here, easier ground lies to the left side, whilst enjoyable steep moves on shale and grass are to be found in the middle. Be very careful of rockfall during dry spells or after heavy rain.
D: Spiral Route- 2/3. A rambling route onto the main face. Head up the Blue John Rib until the first tower, traverse it into the main gully and head up as close to the rib as possible. Take the obvious ledge system under crumbling overhanging rock back around the Blue John Rib. With great exposure and difficult climbing, follow the distinctive hanging scoop to the top.
E: Right Hand Gully 2- 2. The middle of three gullies divided by steep spurs which define the right-hand side of the crag. A steep, loose and scary choss climb. Follow the gully bed, taking in the short rock steps or branching out onto crumbling tiered shale. The exit is quite committing up a steep ramp of grass. I have climbed the lower and upper sections, but not the narrow chute through the rock band at half height.
F: Right Hand Gully 3- 2. Mam Tor's finest short mid- grade scramble. Easy romping up the gully bed leads to a short impassable rock band. Head right and ascend steep shale/ grass before traversing back into the gully. Two spectacular ledges here demand a little chill time and provide a grand perch. From these, climb the shale slab (best on the left up a minor rib) and steep grass ramp above. From the top shale slab, it is possible to traverse into Right- Hand Gully 2, finishing up the top of that.
***: The Third Scoop: 3? No idea if this has ever been done in summer. Surely some brave (or reckless) person has. I've been trying it for over 2 years, always bottling it at the top of the rib before you become committed. The top of the rib is easily accessible via steep shale to the left and provides one of the most awe-inspiring and grand chill spots in all of Peakland. Visit it at least once. Just don't go any further up!
Back Tor.
Mam Tor's smaller cousin is a picturesque little plug of tiered grass and rock, around 40m in height. The scrambling here is much more secure than on Mam Tor, although this does mean there are few easy routes. Short, exposed and scary is the game here, with moves on mixed grass/ rock feeling much more conventional than the slippery shale of Mam Tor.
The West Face offers many possibilities and variations- a few distinct lines I've done are shown here. The classic winter route of 'Back Tor Gully' lies out of sight on the photo, around the corner on the N Face.
A: Left-hand route- 2/3. Takes the obvious left-hand side of the face as steeply as possible, following a shallow scoop. The main difficulties are in the main rock band, requiring hard 'mixed' scrambling on grass/ rock and good route finding abilities. A steep band of grass leads to two rock bands which can be climbed at various points giving a very airy finish. Escapable in places. A brilliant route, intricate, steep and difficult with great exposure. One of the best hard scrambles in Peakland.
B: Central Scoop- 2. This distinct scoop has since land-slipped and now slowly re-growing with grass. After finding a way through the gorse low down, simply follow the scoop upwards. Passing through the rock band gives the main difficulties involving moves on loose grass/ mud and solid rock. Worthwhile.
C: Right-Hand Face- 1/2. A nice introduction scramble and practice ground. Wander up the right- hand side of the face, taking whichever route through the rock-band suits.
D: Easy Descent Gully. Nothing more than a steep grassy walk, but better than the horrible eroded path.
*Back Tor Gully- 2. One of Peakland's classic winter climbs makes for a brilliant mid- grade summer scramble. Climb onto the loosely attached 'diamond' of grass and then into the gully. A short grassy ramp leads to the second crux- a steep section through a narrowing requiring bridging and mixed moves on grass and solid rock. Above this more bridging on rock/ grass and crumbling shale into the upper amphitheater gives a technical and scary finish. One of the best scrambles anywhere- for such a small route it will remain long in the memory.
Hope you enjoyed this little guide! More writing coming up next thursday. I may put a few photos up of these crags between then and now. Take care and happy hillwandering!
Hope you enjoyed this little guide! More writing coming up next thursday. I may put a few photos up of these crags between then and now. Take care and happy hillwandering!
